1982 Pro-Link Rescue

[Nylundarn]

Thanks for all this info!

I have read that many times people find broken cam cap bolts, is that mainly because of previous owners over tightening or poor quality original bolts?

I will be sure to torque them to the lower end of the specs, if I ever come to that stage!

[Larry Zimmer]

Mid-range torque spec is good. Just don't need to go to the upper range. As I mentioned, if you are misfortunate to have some porosity in the threads, you will be doing a time-sert job. (Time-sert is good -- however expensive!) FYI: clamp load for this bolt is approximately 2800 lbs between 9 and 10 ft-lbs torque. That equates to approximately 5800 lbs holding one cam cap together! Likely sufficient!!

[Nylundarn]

Update:

Engine disassembly continues, got the cases split after pulling a muscle in my forearm. At first glance no major problems in the bottom end.

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I have already decided to change all 3 chains, the A & B tensioners will be refurbished and after I had a look at the main chain tensioner, It will be replaced as well.

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Right now Im waiting for the Plastigauge I ordered, will then start measuring clearances.

The head and R-Ex-Cam I bought arrived, the head needs valves/seals and some cooling fin welding. Nothing compared to my old one, this purchase solved my spark plug tread problem, cam cap wear and chain tensioner all at once. All this for a very fair price.

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Looking forward to keep working on the engine, Its such a interesting design and everyone that visits the shop asks about it.

[aahrens1]

Don´t forget to check for bent conrods, this failure seems to be quite usual and the engine ist still running.

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[Nylundarn]

Maybe somebody could enlighten me on how this main shaft nut is removed, and how this one differs from the other engines that have the spring on the shaft?

The FSM calls for a special spanner and shaft holding tool.

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[Marten]

Hi!

I used a spring spanner.

Looks like this:

IMG_2475.png

Also this German has a great rebuild series on a prolink

He shows exactly the move you ask about.

Here is a link to one of his videos, Search his other videos and you will find it.

https://youtu.be/juryIJxLv6o?si=n4p-ErADJzWJh439

Good luck.

[Nylundarn]

Perfect! I've been searching for someone doing it in detail on video.

Tack Marten!

[NobleHops]

You have the wrong manual! The manual for the Prolink is better anyway, you can find it here:

Www.cbxclub.com/manuals

N.

[CBX-tras]

Left hand thread.

[Nylundarn]

I have the Prolink manual, was just unsure of the way the nut worked. After getting it apart it was easier to understand. Thanks!

[Nylundarn]

This is the bike as it stands right now :

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The front fork still needs refurbishing, but right now I need some progress. I got tired of looking at the sad frame laying on the shelf. In this state the CBX frame looks more like a bicycle than a motorcycle. Im waiting for the swingarm I bought on ebay, hopefully its in better condition than my current one. Already got the linkage repair kit from Sixcenter.

The head is at the welder getting the cooling fin damage repaired, after that its off to the machine shop together with the cylinders. Looking forward to that bill.

I have always wondered how people that own these bikes and don't do their own work (what can be done in a normal workshop) manage. The costs must be astronomical! But it's the same case owning any other vintage bike/car I suppose.

[Nylundarn]

A little bit of topic :

I just bought a small parts cleaner for the engine parts, its not heated.

The only suitable ( I think) detergent i can find in my small town is this : https://eshop.wurth.fi/Product-categori ... en/US/EUR/

Potassium Hydroxide based alkaline cleaner, states safe for aluminium.

Anyone know if this is ok to use?

Thanks.